Sϋnner Kölsch


One of the beers I was weaned on when so-called “microbreweries” began popping up everywhere in the 1990s was a German-style beer known as kölsch. The version I first tried was a mainstay at Bluegrass Brewing Co. in St. Matthews, and was just the kind of approachable beer a beginner sometimes needs.

Recently I stopped in for a couple of brews at Eiderdown in Germantown and noted they had a kölsch by Sϋnner Brauerei of Koln, Germany, on draft, so I decided to take a walk down memory lane. This particular kölsch was particularly robust (for a decidedly light-bodied beer, I mean), with a fruity-meets-bready aroma. The flavor paid off on the light fruitiness, backed by a creamy, even body, and basically no bitterness in the finish.

Thinking back, other versions of kölsch beer I’ve had have been more tinny or sharp, but this one was more delicate. Which is to say even your mom would probably like it – sort of a creamier, less carbonated champagne. I would call it “the champagne of beers” but, well, that’s already been taken. But hey, when in Germantown, drink as the Germans drink. Sϋnner Kölsch isn’t a bad place to start.